Can We Cure Acne? A Dermatologist’s Guide to Clear, Healthy Skin

takeaways

1. Adult female acne (affecting people over 25) is discussed as multifactorial, with hormones known as androgens, increased skin sensitivity to normal androgen levels, stress and cortisol, diet (high glycaemic index foods and dairy), and conditions like PCOS all described as potential contributing pieces of the puzzle.

2. Dr Derek Phillips describes Roaccutane as the gold-standard treatment for severe acne, noting a British Journal of Dermatology study where patients taking it were less likely to be depressed or self-harm than those on antibiotics, while acknowledging rare idiosyncratic mental health reactions require close monitoring.

3. The conversation covers newer acne tools including spironolactone, pulsed dye lasers, and a 1726nm laser said to preferentially target oil-producing glands, alongside the caveat that long-term outcomes of lasers are not yet known.

4. The gut-skin connection is framed as an area of active, ongoing research, with small-scale probiotic studies showing varying success rather than settled evidence.

5. Anti-ageing treatments discussed include SPF, vitamin C, retinol and peptides, plus in-clinic options like microneedling, neuromodulators (Botox) and injectables such as Profhilo and polynucleotides derived from salmon or trout.

6. Skin cancer awareness is highlighted, with the guest noting rising rates in younger patients, that a tan is a defence mechanism, and that UV exposure and sunbeds are linked to cancers such as melanoma.

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